St. Louis spirits scene is knockin' on Death's Door

Artisanal spirits are on the upswing across the country, but those of us in the midwest often get left behind. Not in this case!

I recently had the pleasure of meeting Brian Ellison, President of Death's Door Spirits. Death's Door is a Madison, Wisconsin based distillery. They are currently producing vodka, gin, and a white whiskey. That's right, a white whiskey.

Let's start with the vodka. Vodka, by definition, is a flavorless, odorless spirit. So what really separates a quality vodka from a sub-par vodka? Well, attention to detail and small distillation batches help. That shows in this instance by the amazingly smooth mouth-feel and ultra clean finish. The vodka is distilled three times, made with locally grown hard red winter wheat. I will never be a regular vodka drinker, but I am more than happy, as a bartender, to continue to educate those that insist on vodka that the mass produced, mass marketed labels like Grey Goose are inferior products. Death's Door has a winner here. Maxim Magazine agrees too. Check out the April issue, which features this great bottling, along side another of my favorites - Ransom Old Tom Gin.

Now for the exciting stuff. Gin baby! Death's Door Gin was named one of Wine & Spirits Magazine's "Best Spirits" 2009. This gin is distilled with three botanicals - juniper, coriander, and fennel. It is triple distilled in small batches, just like the vodka. The end result is a London dry style, but with much more character than most gin. The finish is silky smooth! I tried this in three of my favorite gin drinks and found it to be a great partner, especially in cocktails that really highlight the gin, rather than the gin playing a supporting role to more intense flavors.

Okay okay! I know! You want to know about the white whiskey. Well, here you go. This whiskey is double distilled, then rested, then put in new oak for a short 72 hours, hence there is next to no color on this bottling. The end result is something akin to a silver tequila, or a pisco, or even maybe a little cachaca'esque flavor. It is definitely a unique experience, and a quality one!

So what do you do with a white whiskey? At Brian's suggestion, I tried a "White Manhattan." 2 ounces of white whiskey, 2 ounces of Dolin bianco vermouth, .25 ounce of Benedictine, and 2 dashes of Regan's Orange bitters. Stir for 30 seconds and serve up with a flamed orange twist. Good stuff!

Brian plans on releasing more traditional, barrel aged whiskey in the future. It obviously takes time to do so, and he doesn't want to do it too soon and not have enough product to keep a supply in the marketplace.

It's truly exciting to get a new, high quality family of craft spirits in St. Louis, and I hope you will all give these products a taste! Where/when can you get this good stuff?!?! Well, it will be in the market in the next few weeks. I know Wine & Cheese Place has picked it up, along with other folks in town. Also look for it on the back-bar at the best places in town for cocktails, including Pi CWE (yours truly) and Taste by Niche.

Here are some recipes to try:

Traditional Moscow Mule
2oz Death's Door Vodka
1oz fresh lime juice
Build over ice and
Top with Osterweis Ginger Beer (available at Schlafly & Fitz's)
DELICIOUS!

Ginger White Ribbon
1.5oz Death's Door Gin
1oz Chateau Le Mothe Bordeaux Blanc (or another french sauv. blanc)
.5oz Canton Ginger liqueur
.25oz Navan vanilla liqueur
Stir for 30 seconds. Serve up with a lemon twist. Clean, summer goodness.

New times!

So.....The next few days will show more truly the course which this blog will take. Look for a thorough review of the best new downtown spot (hint: Bailey) and also a summary of the best wine dinner of 2010, now and future, to take place in St. Louis (hint: Frost/Galliano). Talk soon friends!

Back from the brink

What’s true in fashion is also true in the world of spirits: If you wait long enough, everything comes back in style. Mixologists these days are looking back in order to move forward, reviving the art of classic-cocktail crafting. And as venerable drinks like the Sazerac and the Manhattan become more popular, the ingredients used to make them are also making a comeback. Case in point: rye whiskey, which is once again enjoying a moment in the spotlight.

What is rye whiskey? A quick whiskey lesson: All whiskeys are distilled from a grain mash and then aged. The whiskey styles most Americans are familiar with are either bourbon whiskey or Tennessee whiskey; both contain at least 51 percent corn mash. American rye whiskey must contain at least 51 percent rye mash, which results in rye whiskey making its presence known in a more severe fashion, with a savory flavor, lots of black pepper notes and a slight bitter quality. Bourbon and Tennessee whiskeys tend to have more vanilla and caramel tones and may, to some palates, seem to be sweeter, creamier and smoother than ryes.

A decade ago, rye was tough to find; only a few brands (including Rittenhouse, Old Overholt and Wild Turkey Rye) were available – though rye was really the first whiskey made by 18th-century Scotch-Irish settlers on American soil, it had all but disappeared from America’s liquor cabinets. It had been wildly popular prior to Prohibition, but America’s dry years changed Americans’ tastes. Moonshine and “bathtub gin,” along with imported Canadian whiskeys, were available and the popularity of other spirits was rising. By the time Prohibition was repealed, gin, vodka and other white spirits were in and whiskey was out. Rye whiskey was further doomed by corn’s relative affordability.

But many of the classic whiskey cocktails in the limelight these days were originally made with rye whiskey, which means barkeeps into cocktail culture are using ryes more and more. American distillers are responding to the demand, and these days there are a good number of rye whiskeys on the market. Some of my personal favorites are (ri)1, Rittenhouse Rye, Old Overholt and Sazerac Rye. (ri)1 is an exciting new bottling from the Jim Beam family. Try (ri)1 in the original Sazarac cocktail; the dryness of this whiskey works well with the sweet and herbal elements of the drink. (For a Sazerac recipe, visit the Cocktail Recipes section under Wine & Spirits at www.saucemagazine.com.)

Rittenhouse 100 is one of my favorites for a classic Manhattan. With hints of almond, maple syrup, vanilla and pepper, the whiskey doesn’t get lost in the mix. Check out the recipe below to really get the dry and peppery features to come out. It is also 100 proof, so hold on tight.

Then raise your glass and toast to the continued resurgence of classic, properly crafted American cocktails.

Originally published on 5-1-09 in Sauce Magazine at at www.saucemagazine.com

A changing of the guard

On Jan. 27, Jake Hafner, the easy-going and affable proprietor of 33 Wine Shop and Tasting Bar in Lafayette Square, sent out an e-mail that struck fear into the hearts of loyal patrons. After almost eight years, Hafner was getting out of the business, the long and poetic e-mail explained. The news wasn’t all bad; the cozy shop wasn’t closing. But Hafner was selling it to Jeff Stettner, a 33 regular who, according to the e-mail, “gets it.”

But those who call 33 a home away from home were jittery. Just who is this Jeff Stettner, and what would his ownership do to their beloved watering hole? On a lazy weeknight in late February, I stopped by 33 with a few friends to find out for myself just who this guy was.

The 33 staff is known for its genuine friendliness and head-of-the-class knowledge, and Stettner continues that tradition, greeting us with a firm handshake and a sincere hello. His energy is more visual than that of his predecessor; conversation comes easily for him, and it was apparent that evening as he walked from table to table, chatting with guests.

It didn’t take long to see that Stettner knows his stuff when it comes to wine. He told us about a bottle of 2005 Bandol that he had recently acquired; we agreed to try it because of his enthusiasm, assuming a 33’er would never lead us astray. For the sake of this story, let’s just say that the Bandol was less than great. But none of us thought that something had gone awry with the bottle. I offered Stettner a taste. It took him less than a minute to find a problem: The bottle was slightly corked – so slightly that no one else noticed, and we had drunk almost the entire thing. Stettner still insisted on opening a new bottle for us. And he was right – dead on. The second bottle was remarkable. The cork dorks out there can rest assured that Stettner’s got one of the more talented sniffers in the area. I was thoroughly impressed.

Wine has been a part of Stettner’s life for a long time. He first fell in love with wine at age 22 – it was a bottle of Central Coast Pinot Noir. He continued his wine education while running a restaurant in northern California, then furthered it by working for a wine distributor with five retail shops. A native of Oakland, Calif., Stettner came to St. Louis – his wife’s hometown – to enroll in Washington University’s MBA program. Almost immediately, he found himself at 33, sipping on vino. The bar was a natural fit: His outgoing nature, witty sense of humor and true love of all things grape juice meshed perfectly with other guests and employees alike.

Stettner finished his MBA and immediately landed a gig with a local advertising company, but sitting behind a desk didn’t get the juices flowing. In a stroke of luck, Hafner was contemplating selling the shop and thought of Stettner first; it was the change Stettner was looking for. “While I thoroughly enjoyed my time in the advertising industry, I never felt a connection to the work,” he said. “Every day at 33, every interaction with our regulars, is remarkably satisfying.” It’s obvious that Stettner does connect with this place.

He also understands that it’s unwise to mess with a good thing. (“If it ain’t broke ...,” he said.) Changes at 33 will be beneficial to the establishment without damaging the existing aura. The bar will remain low-key and laid-back, free of loud music and multiple flat-screen TVs. He is in talks to acquire the space on the east side of the shop. Plans for the expanded space include a small retail section to make it easier for patrons to take advantage of the extensive wine list, which is mostly available to-go. There will also be more seating in the expansion, but no major changes to the overall concept.

This pleases 33 fans. Regulars Tony and Janet Brown both said that Stettner’s ownership is “a natural fit and progression.” I couldn’t have said it better. Hafner will be missed, but he found a great person to watch over 33’s future. “I don’t feel like I bought 33,” Stettner said. “I feel like I inherited it.”

Originally published in Sauce Magazine & at www.saucemagazine.com - 4/1/09

Time has brought change.....indeed!

It's been too long. I'm writing this after watching the messiah, if it's not Obama, lose the Super Bowl. Either way, I was compelled to write for many other reasons. The most important is the three episodes of the third season of 'Friday Night Lights' that I just finished watching.

WOW! I can honestly say that anyone who watches this show and doesn't agree that it's one of the best dramas on TV has no business writing for the public to read! The acting, the storytelling, the reality....this show is incredible! It makes me laugh, smile, cry, and cringe at the same time. It is a real piece of middle America. It is life...REAL life, on film yet in the flesh. It is moving! It is moving beyond high budget film and popular drama! I'm amazed that this show has fallen from the ranks. I am glad...SO glad...that it is still on television, but amazed that it has somehow lost critical and fan acclaim.

Lost, The Office, Heroes, Battlestar Gallactica, How I Met Your Mother, 30 Rock...they are all great shows. Most of them have extraordinary writers. None of them come close to Friday Night Lights in pure quality. No, I was not a jock in high school. It doesn't matter. You will relate. You will love it. You will BELIEVE these people are real! It's the best acting on weekly prime time TV, BY FAR!! I would not mislead you. Watch the damn show! Please! Do it now! It's on www.nbc.com in full episode format. You won't regret it!

On another note, there are many exciting things in the near future. I will have full details by the end of the week. Know this though....a monthly column in Sauce Magazine (www.saucemagazine.com) is right around the corner. A huge project is coming up as well.....one that will have a major impact on the greatest street in St. Louis. Until then...enjoy the show and do it with a great glass of wine!

CG

New music

It's about time that some of the more 'mainstream' artists that I'm a fan of released new records. Well...a few are out now, and more to come shortly. The new Beck and Bloc Party albums are both worthy of $14. But this post is about something else....a really cool, yet sooooo simple visual that The Killers did at the MTV Europe awards show. Check it out. Whether you like them, or the song, it's still worth your four minutes.

The Killers - MTV Shows

Blood & Sand - Cocktails like no other in St. Louis!

Okay...it's been a while, and now I'm making a commitment to dedicating this blog to the best new spots in St. Louis that you may not know of, or find out about through the crap which is STL publications, save Sauce.

Over the past two years, I had the great opportunity to learn from and drink with Ted Kilgore. Ted is a true genius of the spirits and cocktail world, and recognized as such. He regularly garners praise from national publications, but rarely are his concoctions the focus of local media. Well, I think Ted's time is nearly here. He has picked up steam over the past year, working on many freelance consulting projects, getting local write ups, all the while further honing his skills as a 'Master of Spirits' or Master Mixologist, if you will.

The time has come for St. Louis to see what a real cocktail is. Enter 'Blood & Sand.' Every other Monday night, 33 Wine Bar in Lafayette Square becomes a speakeasy style cocktail club. There is a set menu each night of roughly eight cocktails, different each time. The bar magicians would also be happy to mix you up a classic Manhattan, fizz, flip, or other other classic. There will be no junk served here though. No extra dirty vodka martinis. No Red Bull and vodka. Actually, no vodka whatsoever. How great is that?!?! The true form of finely paired spirits with freshly squeezed juices, measured out to the most accurate of measurements. That's right...no free pouring here.

Tuesday through Saturday, you can experience Ted's skills at Monarch Restaurant in Maplewood. Every other Monday at 33 is a sign of what is to come. I think St. Louis may be ready for it's own speakeasy, and this is just a teaser. The next event will be Monday, October 13th. See you there!