Back from the brink

What’s true in fashion is also true in the world of spirits: If you wait long enough, everything comes back in style. Mixologists these days are looking back in order to move forward, reviving the art of classic-cocktail crafting. And as venerable drinks like the Sazerac and the Manhattan become more popular, the ingredients used to make them are also making a comeback. Case in point: rye whiskey, which is once again enjoying a moment in the spotlight.

What is rye whiskey? A quick whiskey lesson: All whiskeys are distilled from a grain mash and then aged. The whiskey styles most Americans are familiar with are either bourbon whiskey or Tennessee whiskey; both contain at least 51 percent corn mash. American rye whiskey must contain at least 51 percent rye mash, which results in rye whiskey making its presence known in a more severe fashion, with a savory flavor, lots of black pepper notes and a slight bitter quality. Bourbon and Tennessee whiskeys tend to have more vanilla and caramel tones and may, to some palates, seem to be sweeter, creamier and smoother than ryes.

A decade ago, rye was tough to find; only a few brands (including Rittenhouse, Old Overholt and Wild Turkey Rye) were available – though rye was really the first whiskey made by 18th-century Scotch-Irish settlers on American soil, it had all but disappeared from America’s liquor cabinets. It had been wildly popular prior to Prohibition, but America’s dry years changed Americans’ tastes. Moonshine and “bathtub gin,” along with imported Canadian whiskeys, were available and the popularity of other spirits was rising. By the time Prohibition was repealed, gin, vodka and other white spirits were in and whiskey was out. Rye whiskey was further doomed by corn’s relative affordability.

But many of the classic whiskey cocktails in the limelight these days were originally made with rye whiskey, which means barkeeps into cocktail culture are using ryes more and more. American distillers are responding to the demand, and these days there are a good number of rye whiskeys on the market. Some of my personal favorites are (ri)1, Rittenhouse Rye, Old Overholt and Sazerac Rye. (ri)1 is an exciting new bottling from the Jim Beam family. Try (ri)1 in the original Sazarac cocktail; the dryness of this whiskey works well with the sweet and herbal elements of the drink. (For a Sazerac recipe, visit the Cocktail Recipes section under Wine & Spirits at www.saucemagazine.com.)

Rittenhouse 100 is one of my favorites for a classic Manhattan. With hints of almond, maple syrup, vanilla and pepper, the whiskey doesn’t get lost in the mix. Check out the recipe below to really get the dry and peppery features to come out. It is also 100 proof, so hold on tight.

Then raise your glass and toast to the continued resurgence of classic, properly crafted American cocktails.

Originally published on 5-1-09 in Sauce Magazine at at www.saucemagazine.com

A changing of the guard

On Jan. 27, Jake Hafner, the easy-going and affable proprietor of 33 Wine Shop and Tasting Bar in Lafayette Square, sent out an e-mail that struck fear into the hearts of loyal patrons. After almost eight years, Hafner was getting out of the business, the long and poetic e-mail explained. The news wasn’t all bad; the cozy shop wasn’t closing. But Hafner was selling it to Jeff Stettner, a 33 regular who, according to the e-mail, “gets it.”

But those who call 33 a home away from home were jittery. Just who is this Jeff Stettner, and what would his ownership do to their beloved watering hole? On a lazy weeknight in late February, I stopped by 33 with a few friends to find out for myself just who this guy was.

The 33 staff is known for its genuine friendliness and head-of-the-class knowledge, and Stettner continues that tradition, greeting us with a firm handshake and a sincere hello. His energy is more visual than that of his predecessor; conversation comes easily for him, and it was apparent that evening as he walked from table to table, chatting with guests.

It didn’t take long to see that Stettner knows his stuff when it comes to wine. He told us about a bottle of 2005 Bandol that he had recently acquired; we agreed to try it because of his enthusiasm, assuming a 33’er would never lead us astray. For the sake of this story, let’s just say that the Bandol was less than great. But none of us thought that something had gone awry with the bottle. I offered Stettner a taste. It took him less than a minute to find a problem: The bottle was slightly corked – so slightly that no one else noticed, and we had drunk almost the entire thing. Stettner still insisted on opening a new bottle for us. And he was right – dead on. The second bottle was remarkable. The cork dorks out there can rest assured that Stettner’s got one of the more talented sniffers in the area. I was thoroughly impressed.

Wine has been a part of Stettner’s life for a long time. He first fell in love with wine at age 22 – it was a bottle of Central Coast Pinot Noir. He continued his wine education while running a restaurant in northern California, then furthered it by working for a wine distributor with five retail shops. A native of Oakland, Calif., Stettner came to St. Louis – his wife’s hometown – to enroll in Washington University’s MBA program. Almost immediately, he found himself at 33, sipping on vino. The bar was a natural fit: His outgoing nature, witty sense of humor and true love of all things grape juice meshed perfectly with other guests and employees alike.

Stettner finished his MBA and immediately landed a gig with a local advertising company, but sitting behind a desk didn’t get the juices flowing. In a stroke of luck, Hafner was contemplating selling the shop and thought of Stettner first; it was the change Stettner was looking for. “While I thoroughly enjoyed my time in the advertising industry, I never felt a connection to the work,” he said. “Every day at 33, every interaction with our regulars, is remarkably satisfying.” It’s obvious that Stettner does connect with this place.

He also understands that it’s unwise to mess with a good thing. (“If it ain’t broke ...,” he said.) Changes at 33 will be beneficial to the establishment without damaging the existing aura. The bar will remain low-key and laid-back, free of loud music and multiple flat-screen TVs. He is in talks to acquire the space on the east side of the shop. Plans for the expanded space include a small retail section to make it easier for patrons to take advantage of the extensive wine list, which is mostly available to-go. There will also be more seating in the expansion, but no major changes to the overall concept.

This pleases 33 fans. Regulars Tony and Janet Brown both said that Stettner’s ownership is “a natural fit and progression.” I couldn’t have said it better. Hafner will be missed, but he found a great person to watch over 33’s future. “I don’t feel like I bought 33,” Stettner said. “I feel like I inherited it.”

Originally published in Sauce Magazine & at www.saucemagazine.com - 4/1/09