Saturday, March 20, 2010

St. Louis spirits scene is knockin' on Death's Door

Artisanal spirits are on the upswing across the country, but those of us in the midwest often get left behind. Not in this case!

I recently had the pleasure of meeting Brian Ellison, President of Death's Door Spirits. Death's Door is a Madison, Wisconsin based distillery. They are currently producing vodka, gin, and a white whiskey. That's right, a white whiskey.

Let's start with the vodka. Vodka, by definition, is a flavorless, odorless spirit. So what really separates a quality vodka from a sub-par vodka? Well, attention to detail and small distillation batches help. That shows in this instance by the amazingly smooth mouth-feel and ultra clean finish. The vodka is distilled three times, made with locally grown hard red winter wheat. I will never be a regular vodka drinker, but I am more than happy, as a bartender, to continue to educate those that insist on vodka that the mass produced, mass marketed labels like Grey Goose are inferior products. Death's Door has a winner here. Maxim Magazine agrees too. Check out the April issue, which features this great bottling, along side another of my favorites - Ransom Old Tom Gin.

Now for the exciting stuff. Gin baby! Death's Door Gin was named one of Wine & Spirits Magazine's "Best Spirits" 2009. This gin is distilled with three botanicals - juniper, coriander, and fennel. It is triple distilled in small batches, just like the vodka. The end result is a London dry style, but with much more character than most gin. The finish is silky smooth! I tried this in three of my favorite gin drinks and found it to be a great partner, especially in cocktails that really highlight the gin, rather than the gin playing a supporting role to more intense flavors.

Okay okay! I know! You want to know about the white whiskey. Well, here you go. This whiskey is double distilled, then rested, then put in new oak for a short 72 hours, hence there is next to no color on this bottling. The end result is something akin to a silver tequila, or a pisco, or even maybe a little cachaca'esque flavor. It is definitely a unique experience, and a quality one!

So what do you do with a white whiskey? At Brian's suggestion, I tried a "White Manhattan." 2 ounces of white whiskey, 2 ounces of Dolin bianco vermouth, .25 ounce of Benedictine, and 2 dashes of Regan's Orange bitters. Stir for 30 seconds and serve up with a flamed orange twist. Good stuff!

Brian plans on releasing more traditional, barrel aged whiskey in the future. It obviously takes time to do so, and he doesn't want to do it too soon and not have enough product to keep a supply in the marketplace.

It's truly exciting to get a new, high quality family of craft spirits in St. Louis, and I hope you will all give these products a taste! Where/when can you get this good stuff?!?! Well, it will be in the market in the next few weeks. I know Wine & Cheese Place has picked it up, along with other folks in town. Also look for it on the back-bar at the best places in town for cocktails, including Pi CWE (yours truly) and Taste by Niche.

Here are some recipes to try:

Traditional Moscow Mule
2oz Death's Door Vodka
1oz fresh lime juice
Build over ice and
Top with Osterweis Ginger Beer (available at Schlafly & Fitz's)
DELICIOUS!

Ginger White Ribbon
1.5oz Death's Door Gin
1oz Chateau Le Mothe Bordeaux Blanc (or another french sauv. blanc)
.5oz Canton Ginger liqueur
.25oz Navan vanilla liqueur
Stir for 30 seconds. Serve up with a lemon twist. Clean, summer goodness.